He mea whakarereke tenei waahanga mai i te Dressing Up: Women Influencing French Fashion (MIT Press), i taia tuatahitia e te MIT News Reader ka tukuna ano ki konei me te whakaaetanga.
Kei te kaha haere tonu nga kaihautu ahua ahua i muri i te karanga a COP26 ki te ao ki te mahi mo te huringa o te rangi. Ko Chloé te waitohu papai tuatahi ki te whakatutuki i te "tuanga B Corporation" e hiahiatia ana, a inaianei kei te pupuri i taua hiri o te whakaaetanga, e tohu ana i tana pono ki te whakaiti. tona paanga ki te tangata me te ao na roto i te whakamahinga o te kaha whakahou me nga rauemi e ahu mai ana i nga tikanga, i roto i nga rau o etahi atu kaupapa i kino. ” nga kamupene putea ThredUp (i hangaia i te 2009), Poshmark (i whakaturia i te 2011) me te RealReal (i whakaturia i te 2011). Kua whakarārangihia nga whakawhitinga, he nui te tipu o te toru, engari kaore ano kia nui te hua.
I te wa ano, kei te whaia e te hunga panui ahua, me te WWD, nga kereme tinihanga a nga rama papai penei i te Kaiako mo nga mahi e kiia ana he mohio kua kitea ki te whakangaro i te tini o nga pukoro korekore, kaua ki te whakatika, ki te whakahoki ano. whakama ki a ratou, i te wa e paunatia ana e te hunga podcast nga toa me te ngaro. Ko te kairipoata ahua a Amy Odell, te kaituhi o te panui "Back Row" motuhake, e aro ana ki nga kerēme rangatōpū teka. He tino nui, ahakoa ka tata tonu ka pa ki nga ture uaua i roto i te US" I kii ia "i tenei tau ka whakahouhia e te FTC ana Aratohu 'matomato'," e whai ana ki te awhina i nga kaihokohoko ki te karo i nga kereme taiao e whakapohehe ana i nga kaihoko.
I te pikinga ake o te "hokohoko i runga i te uara" me te "te whakapumautanga o te kowhiringa hua", he wa pai tenei ki te kite i te ahua o enei mahi ki nga mahi o mua. Félix and House of Worth) me o ratou kiritaki mohio o te ao?
I te mutunga o te rau tau 1800, ko te ahua French te hoko papai rawa atu mo nga wahine whai rawa o Amerika. Ko nga wahine e whakapau ana i nga mano taara mo nga kakahu French ka whakanui ake i a raatau haumi ma te whakahoki ano i a raatau - ka mau i nga wa maha i roto i te waa o te tau, i te tau ranei, he rereke ki te aha. ka mahi ratou me o ratou whakapaipai tino utu Karekau he rereke.Ka mau ratou i te kakahu ki tona ahua taketake, ka whakahou ano, ka utu ranei i te kaihanga taketake, i tetahi kaikoi o te rohe ranei hei whakahou. i roto i te ahurea kingi o te Pakeha.I ta te kaituhi korero me te kaitiaki a Kate Strastin e korero ana i roto i te Roopu o te Roopu Roera: Ko te Hitori o nga kakahu o Kuini Alexandra, Alexandra, Princess of Wales, i whakarereketia e tana wahine a Lady Liz me tana kamupene tana kakahu marena i hanga i Ingarangi hei kakahu ahiahi. I te marama o Maehe 1863, i etahi ra i muri mai i tana marenatanga ki a Edward VII. Ka kii mai a Strastin mo te Poipoi o Te Wairau i te tau 1874, ko te ahua kua whakarereketia e te Kamupene Elise te kakahu o Alexandra w.i te Waverley Ball i Raanana i te tau 1871. Ko te kakahu e mau ana i te tapanga Elise ka tiakina i tenei ra i te Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection i Kensington Palace.
I mau a Mary Endicott Chamberlain i te kakahu hiraka puru o House of Worth me te reihi, te pirepire me te weriweri ki nga huihuinga e rua o te kooti i Raanana i Maehe me Hurae 1893. Ko te huihuinga tuatahi ko te powhiri i te ruma tuhi o Kuini Wikitoria i Buckingham Palace, a ko te tuarua ko te marenatanga o te Tiuka me te Tuahine o York (i muri mai ko Kingi George V raua ko Kuini Mary). Kua waia hoki ia ki te whakahoki i ana koroka Worth ki te whare ahua mo te whakarereketanga, penei i tana hiahia i te reihi Van Dyke. kara i runga i te kakahu satin whero.
I te timatanga o nga tau 2000, ka mau nga wahine o runga o Amerika ki te tauira rangatira mo te repurposing kakahu. I te marenatanga a Erihapeti Patterson o Baltimore ki a Jerome Bonaparte i te tau 1803, ka mau ia i tetahi kakahu ma, he mea whakakakahuhia e ia he maha nga wa mai i taua wa. Ko te kakahu French a Nancy Fowler McCormick. , inaianei kei roto i te kohinga o te Chicago Historical Society, e whakaatu ana i nga tohu kua mau ano. I tae atu ia ki te maha o nga huihuinga hapori me tana tane, te miriona miriona a Cyrus Hall McCormick, me te mau i te kakahu Worth ki te marena o tana tama i te tau 1904.
He maha nga kakahu rangatira ka noho hei taonga tuku iho, ka tuhia ki roto i nga wira, katahi ka riro ma nga uri e whiriwhiri me pehea e mau ai, me te kore whakarereke ranei. , me nga tulip reihi i waiho i roto i tana wira mo te taha rau o te kakahu marena o to raua whaea. I muri mai ka whakamahia e Alva raua ko tana tamahine a Consulo he miro i runga i o raua kakahu marena. Waihoki, i te tau 1883, ka hokona e te tangata atawhai a Caroline Louisa Williams French o Boston, Massachusetts, he puru pouri. huu weriweri me te kuti huruhuru chinchilla me te tapanga Maison Lipman mo te 1,600 francs. Ko te waitohu, na Madame Camille Lipman i whakahaere, i rere ki Paris i nga tau 1880, ko ona kaihoko ko Maria Pia, Kuini o Potukara. I etahi tau 37 i muri mai, ko Alice Williams Pearse , he uri no French, e whakaahuatia ana i roto i te koroka me te putea chinchilla, kaore he koti, i tetahi huihuinga whakanui i te Tekau ma iwa Whakatikatika, i hoatu e te whakatikatika ki nga wahine te mana ki te pooti.New England. Ko Orme Wilson Jr. raua ko Richard Thornton Wilson III i koha he kohinga koroka ki te Whare Taonga Toi Metropolitan na Houses of Worth, Doucet, me Paquin, e whakaatu ana i te ahua o te tipu o te couture i roto i te peka o te whanau kotahi Feel .Ko nga teina Wilson nga tama a William Buckhouse Astor Jr. raua ko Carrie tamahine a Caroline Astor.
Mo nga huihuinga penei i te Centennial Ball i whakahaeretia puta noa i te motu i te tau 1876, i tukuna e nga wahine nga koroka e rite ana ki nga kakahu e mau ana o ratou tupuna i roto i nga whakaahua me nga whakaahua. Ko etahi o nga wahine i whakamahi i nga wahanga o a ratou kohinga reihi tawhito i etahi wa, pera i nga Astors, nana i kohi te reihi Flemish me te French no te rau tau 1800, kua ora etahi. I te marenatanga o tana tamahine a Helen ki a James R. Roosevelt i 1878, ka whakahīhī a Caroline Astor ki te mau i te kākahu weriweri pango me te kuti miro 200-tau te pakeke.
Ko tetahi atu putanga mo te whakamahi ano ko nga para mai i nga rangatira ki a ratou kotiro, ki nga kaiwhiwhi aroha ranei. I koha e Caroline Astor etahi kakahu ki te hohipera wahine, ko Cornelia Stewart, kua marenatia ki te kaihokohoko AT Stewart, e kiia ana i hoatu etahi o ana kakahu ki tetahi wahine i roto Me Kaiwaiata i roto i nga kakahu o te atamira.I ta Diana de Marley (kaituhi o "History of Haute Couture") me Kate Strastin i whakaatu, he hua te mahi a te kingi Pakeha ki te tuku kakahu ki nga pononga wahine, a Kuini Wikitoria raua ko Alex pera ano a Princess. Sandra.Wales.Ko tetahi atu rere ko te hoko kakahu ki nga kaihokohoko tuarua, nga uri o te tauhokohoko kua roa o Uropi mo nga kakahu kakahu. .I te rau tau 1800, ka hoko nga mema o te whanau kingi ki etahi kaihokohoko kakahu.
Mai i te timatanga o te rau tau 1800, he hitori ano a Ingarangi mo te hoko kakahu kingi me te rangatira rangatira i runga i nga whakawhitinga kakahu tawhito i Rawhiti Rawhiti, ko nga korero a Jennifer Le Zotte i roto i tana pukapuka Mai i te pai ki a Grunge. I whakamarama ano ia i New York, he kaha tuarua- Ko nga mahi hokohoko ringa i te Rawhiti Rawhiti na te taenga mai o te tini o nga Pakeha manene hou i waenganui i nga tau 1880 me 1920, he mea whakahaere na nga Hurai whai wheako ki te hokohoko me te mahi whakakakahu. i te mea ka aukatihia nga kaihopu hoko kakahu i roto i nga hokohoko raid aroha. I uru mai te Anti-Semitism ki konei na te mea i kitea i mua ko nga Hurai te rangatira o te tauhokohoko, he mea hanga na runga i te hiahia i te wa i aukatihia ai ratou i a ratou mahi ka huri ki te kaata haereere. hokonga.
Ka mahi auaha nga kaihaka ki te tiki me te hapai i nga kakahu utu nui. I te matenga o te kaiwaiata opera a Emma Abbott i te tau 1891, ka hokona e Jeanne Kimball te kaakahu Worth me Félix i mau i Carmen i etahi tau i mua atu. he whetu i runga i te atamira. I te kore e taea e Elena o Montenegro te whakamahi i etahi kaakahu Félix hou mo tetahi wa i roto i te tangihanga mo te kingi Itari a Umberto I patua e te hunga anarchist, ka tukuna e te couturier tuatahi ki te Whakaaturanga Ao i Paris I te whakaaturanga 1900. I a ia e toro ana. Ko te whakaaturanga, i miharo a Francesca Redding ki te kakahu hiraka kaakaariki me te kaakahu kaakaariki kua whakatakahia e te rau, ka hokona e ia, ka tere tuu ki runga atamira. Ko nga kakahu o te tohunga hapori a Mary Rita Wilson-Gollette, i ata tirohia i roto i nga purongo nama e mau tonu ana, i hokona ki New York Ko te kaihoko whare tapere a Eves i muri i tona matenga, a he maha nga wahine wahine i mau, e ai ki nga purongo..Ka mutu, ka hokona e Sadie Martinot ana ake kaakahu atamira Worth me Félix i te peeke i te marama o Haratua 1894 mo te $35,000 (neke atu i te $1.1 miriona i tenei ra) .I hokona ano e nga kaihaka o ratou kakahu atamira ki nga kaihoko o ratou toa, pera i ta The Sun i korero ai. i te tau 1892, “me nga remu, nga remu, me nga kakahu Basque i whakairihia e toru, e wha nga papa te hohonu”.
Ko nga kaihoko i roto i nga toa tuarua ko nga wahine o waenga ka mau o ratou kakahu mo nga tau. Ko Hannah Ditzler Alspaugh o Illinois nga tuhinga i roto i tana pukapuka rehita me ana pukapuka papanga nga kakahu me nga koti ka mahia e ia, ka "haehae" ranei i roto i nga tau, tae atu ki tetahi o ana kakahu. i te Whakaaturanga o te Ao Columbia i Chicago Suits, ko te mea nui, i whakahaerehia te huihuinga i te wa o te raru putea o te motu o te tau 1893. Ma te tino whakamahere me te tiaki, ka taea te tiaki kakahu me te mau pinepine. Ko nga kakahu o roto kei te paparanga hei arai i waenga i nga hinu o te tinana me te paru me te nuinga o te kakahu.
Ko te mahi ki te whiwhi i nga mea e hiahia ana koe katahi ka huri ano, ka tohatoha me te whakawhiti i te ahua kua tohatohahia te ahua French i roto i nga kohinga huri noa i te ao. E ai ki a Strastin, i hokona te koroka o Kuini Alexandra e te American Art Association me Anderson Art Gallery i te tau 1937 , a ko te hauwha o taua mea i hokona e Erin Lewison ka hokona ki te Metropolitan Museum of Art I whakaturia te Kura o nga kakahu.
Ahakoa he iti noa te mohiotanga hapori o enei rauemi i roto i te ahua o enei ra—te huruhuru, te huruhuru o nga manu onge, tae atu ki te whakapaipai mahunga me nga kaimoana taake e pai ana—ka maioha pea tatou ki tetahi mea i roto i te waa, nga tikanga whakamahi ano kua whakaaetia, me nga mea e kiia nei ko te eke pahikara. Ko nga mea papai o te ahua French i hokona e ratou, na nga wahine o Amerika i kawe mai he whakaaro nui ki te maakete. Ko ThredUp, Poshmark me Te RealReal te kaupapa matua, me te whakaroa i te oranga o nga kakahu hei whiringa kaihoko matatika me te matara rawa atu i nga taunga e hiahiatia ana. i te mutunga o te rau tau tekau ma iwa, i roto i nga roopu hapori teitei rawa atu, kaore he mea hei whakakore i te whakahi.
Ki te nama i te kupu mo te kamupene matauranga ahua Motif, ko nga wahine o Amerika i hoko ahua French i te mutunga o te rau tau 1800 ka whakaurua he "tauira porohita i hangaia ai te kakahu me te whakawhanake me te whakaaro o muri mai". .
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e.apiVersion&&!1===Hanga(g.deepAccess)(e,”vendorData.purpose.consents.1″))whakahoki!1}whakahoki!0}mahi V(){var e=tohenga.roa>0&&kore 0 !=tohenga[0]?tohenga[0]:window.location.namename;if(!x.cookiesAreEnabled())turn e;var t,n,r=e.split(“.”);if(2 ==r.roa)re转 e;var i=-2,o=”_rdc”.concat(Rā.now()),a=”tuhi”;do{t=r.slice(i).hono( “.”);var c =Ra hou(Anoa(g.timestamp)()+1e4).toUTCString();x.setCookie(o,a,c,”Lax”,t,kore 0),x.getCookie (o,kore 0)= ==a?(n=!1,x.setCookie(o,”",”Thu, 01 Hanuere 1970 00:00:01 GMT”,kore 0,t,kore 0)): (i+=-1,n =Math.abs(i)0){t=!0;var r=!1,i=mahi(){r||(r=!0,e())};mea (g.logInfo)(” “.concat(E,” – 拍卖延迟 “).concat(j,” 最多获取 ids”)),O=setTimeout(i,j),W(n,i)} else caon (laEVENTS.AUCTION_END ,函数 e(){caoff(laEVENTS.AUCTION_END,e),_>0?setTimeout(mahi(){W(n)},_):W(n)})}e&&!t&&e() }函数 K( e,t){H(taumahi(){!taumahi(e,t){[e].etahi(taumahi(e){hoki!Huanga.isArray(e)||!e.roa})||e.forEach(taumahi(e){e.bids&&Anoa(g.isArray)(e.bids)&&e.bids.forEach(taumahi(e){var n=taumahi(e,t){return 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Te wa tuku: Hanuere-19-2022